After many weeks away from Government Bay exploring other areas, I returned this week in search of a new line.
This line has a solid belay ledge. About ten feet to climber’s left, the scree fades into the lake. Because it lies on the climber’s right side of the cliff, it can be accessed by a trail leaving Nelson’s Resort with a touch of bushwacking, or by boat.
This new line has some great crimps off the ground. After pulling a shallow roof, there are amazing side pulls that lead into a shelfy 5.7 section. The bolts run out from below this section to the start of the big finish. Adding a bolt at the ledge would cause rope drag on lead and is unnecessary for a lead climber at this grade. However, if you want the security of protection between the 4th and 5th bolt, bring some small cams or a set of nuts and an alpine draw; there are a couple of placements to choose from.
After the ledge, you get into a sweet lay back finish. Three stellar pockets in the dihedral bring you into a short roof finish.
I haven’t named the route yet and a lead ascent awaits, but I’m feeling confident that this 5.10+(ish) route is a new classic in Crane Lake.