Government Bay; Beyond Blueberry Fortress

A twenty minute kayak ride away from Nelson’s Resort is Government Bay, which holds the instant classic, Blueberry Fortress.

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Working Blueberry Fortress on Government Bay Wall

After many weeks away from Government Bay exploring other areas, I returned this week in search of a new line.

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Government Bay Wall on Crane Lake

 

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Dropping in on a potential new line

 

This line has a solid belay ledge. About ten feet to climber’s left, the scree fades into the lake. Because it lies on the climber’s right side of the cliff, it can be accessed by a trail leaving Nelson’s Resort with a touch of bushwacking, or by boat.

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Looking at the line from below

 

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Looking out on Crane Lake from the belay ledge

 

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Looking towards the Blueberry Fortress landing

 

This new line has some great crimps off the ground. After pulling a shallow roof, there are amazing side pulls that lead into a shelfy 5.7 section. The bolts run out from below this section to the start of the big finish. Adding a bolt at the ledge would cause rope drag on lead and is unnecessary for a lead climber at this grade. However, if you want the security of protection between the 4th and 5th bolt, bring some small cams or a set of nuts and an alpine draw; there are a couple of placements to choose from.

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The new line after a good scrubbing

 

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Super rad side pulls half way up the route

 

After the ledge, you get into a sweet lay back finish. Three stellar pockets in the dihedral bring you into a short roof finish.

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The last 15 feet and crux of the route

 

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Dead tree marks the rappel area. The point off in the distance is where the Nelson’s Resort cabin, Wigwam, sits.

 

I haven’t named the route yet and a lead ascent awaits, but I’m feeling confident that this 5.10+(ish) route is a new classic in Crane Lake.

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Looking out on Crane Lake from the top of Government Bay Wall
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